Inhabitat










Jill Danyelle

April 28, 2008

INTERVIEW: Serge Appel on One Bryant Park

by Jill Danyelle

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One Bryant Park is the first LEED platinum “skyscraper”; what is your favorite LEED aspect of the project? Aside from LEED, what was the most interesting or exciting part of the project for you?

For me, the best part of this project isn’t a single element or technology but rather the chance to work with an incredible team of dedicated professionals all driven by the same goal. Having the backing of the Bank of America and the Durst Organization has made a tremendous difference in setting the bar high in terms of sustainable design. On top of that, each consultant on the team is top notch and fully engaged with the project.


What was your least favorite or the most difficult thing about the project?

Certainly the most difficult part of this project has been the intense and detailed coordination required for such a large and complex building. The vast majority of that has far less to do with the green elements than with the requirements of a major banking institution being built in the middle of midtown Manhattan post 9/11.

Architecture has delayed gratification in terms of realization when compared with other design fields. OBP has been under construction for three years and has one year to go. To what extent are you involved in the process? What is it like to work on a project that takes six years from first sketch to completed structure?

I’m still involved daily in almost all aspects of the project, from the spire detailing to quality control on the installation of the curtain wall. Even after several years, there’s always something exciting and new right around the corner - not to mention that One Bryant Park is not your ordinary office building. Even still, staying personally motivated and keeping a team of people working over many years requires a strong sense of ownership and responsibility, as well as a fair amount of patience. Fortunately, projects this large are always broken down into smaller pieces, each with its own bit of gratification.

Can you explain how the big ice cubes in the basement will work?

They’re not exactly giant ice cubes, but the thermal storage system basically works like a “battery” for cooling. In the basement, there are 44 10-foot high, cylindrical tanks with water and a cooling coil inside. At night, when electrical production from the co-generation plant exceeds the building’s needs, we use that excess to run the chilling equipment to freeze the water in the tanks. During the day, the ice melts and provides cooling to the building. This shifts some of the electrical load from daytime to nighttime, which reduces the impact on an already stressed NYC electric grid.

How about those waterless urinals?

Waterless urinals are pretty straightforward; from the point of view of the user, there is no real difference. We have them in our own office, which we moved into last year and is also LEED Platinum - the first in New York. Instead of flushing, the urinals have a special drain fitted with a cartridge full of a liquid less dense than urine, which “floats” on top and seals out odors. Like all urinals, they have to be regularly maintained and cleaned and the cartridge has to be changed on occasion.

People are still wondering if “green” is just a trend. Where it often costs more to produce green products, in terms of buildings, the energy savings seem to actually make building green more cost-effective in the long run. Were there any environmental aspects of the design that needed to be compromised due to cost?

Building green is not a trend, at least not in our minds. The idea of building green really is about building smarter, higher performing buildings which are considerate of the people who live or work in them. Like any other aspect of the building, the benefits need to be weighed against the costs. There were several items which just couldn’t be justified today. When we started the project, we were sure that there would be building-integrated photovoltaics, but the more we looked at the amount of electricity generated, the less it made sense. We also looked seriously at including a wind turbine - in fact, the building originally had two spires, one architectural and one for the wind turbine. We even set up an anemometer on top of the adjacent 4 Times Square and took a full year of wind measurements. What we discovered is that while there is sufficient “quantity” of wind, it isn’t consistent enough to make the power generated worthwhile, at least not at the current state of the technology.

Maybe this is a question for Jordan Barowitz over at the Durst Organization, the developers of the project, but do you know to what extent being LEED platinum has been a selling point for the building, which I believe is almost completely leased?

The building is almost fully leased, and from what we have heard being green has made a significant difference. We are designing one of the tenant floors at the moment for fashion designer Elie Tahari LTD, and the green elements of this building were very important to them.

December 16, 2007

SUSTAINABLE STYLE: Alabama Chanin

by Jill Danyelle

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Natalie Chanin has launched her newest endeavor, Alabama Chanin, which produces a small collection of housewares, jewelry, and apparel. True to her attention to community, one of the first products she created benefits post-Katrina reconstruction. All of the profits from the organic cotton, US-made Alabama Builds Shirt go to benefit Architecture for Humanity in their work with the Gulf Coast Region projects, mixing sustainable style with real social responsibility.

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November 4, 2007

SUSTAINABLE STYLE: Behnaz Sarafpour Organic Collection

by Jill Danyelle

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Designer Behnaz Sarafpour showed a capsule collection of organic pieces at the recent NY Fashion Week. The collection utilizes natural dyes derived from such non-traditional, or shall we say traditional, methods involving insects (cochineal) and sawdust. We met up with Behnaz at her showroom to preview the collection and she was gracious enough to answer a few questions for us.

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November 4, 2007

SUSTAINABLE STYLE: The Latest Green Fashion Shows

by Jill Danyelle

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Well readers, you thought fashion week ended weeks ago, but we are here to tell you that it is always fashion week somewhere. Here is some reportage on the latest green fashion events from around the globe.

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October 21, 2007

SUSTAINABLE STYLE SUNDAY: Viridis Luxe

by Jill Danyelle

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Viridis Luxe is on a mission to provide sustainable luxurious clothing to those who want to tread lightly on the planet while continuing to enjoy fashion, luxury, and style. They fulfill their effortless chic aesthetic with wonderful knits in their signature fabric, a blend of the finest cashmere with long-fiber hemp. In addition the line is comprised of bamboo t-shirts and a collection of sheer silk-hemp jersey tops.

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October 14, 2007

NORDSTROM EMBRACES ORGANIC STYLE

by Jill Danyelle

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We’re happy to report that Nordstrom has begun to embrace organic style. The company is blending in organic cotton into some of their namesake brands while buying new brands that include sustainable fibers. The range cannot be characterized as expansive, but it does include one of our new favorites, Viridis Luxe, whose sustainable cashmere hemp knits are seen above.
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October 7, 2007

SUSTAINABLE JEWELRY: Kirsten Muenster

by Jill Danyelle

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Kirsten Muenster is a jewelry designer committed to ethical production. Her designs allow the stones’ natural beauty to take center stage, supporting without overwhelming. Similar to good food, when you find something beautiful in nature, a minimal approach is the best way to let it shine. I discovered Kirsten’s jewelry last year and wasn’t sure about the environmental slant, so I inquired. Kirsten responded and I’ll let her following words speak for herself….

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October 7, 2007

SUSTAINABLE STYLE SUNDAY: Eileen Fisher Eco Fashion

by Jill Danyelle

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While other major brands have seemed to jump on the green bandwagon with underlying marketing goals, EILEEN FISHER has been quietly expanding their organic line over the last couple of years. Along with increased sustainable fibers, including a new natural cashmere collection(!!), the company is also well-known for its social responsibility and wellness initiatives. The elegant basic styles, which can be mixed together season upon season, are also a subtle statement on necessity and consumerism.

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September 30, 2007

SUSTAINABLE STYLE: Zegna’s Solar Powered Jacket

by Jill Danyelle

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Forget solar powered backpacks and panels - Ermenegildo Zegna’s Solar-Powered Jacket is hands down the most practical and best-looking way to charge your mobile gadgets that we have seen in a while. The jacket is slated to hit stores in November, but one New Yorker gave it a test drive and appeared to become a little obsessed with charging every small gadget he could find… including a mini refrigerator.

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September 30, 2007

SUSTAINABLE STYLE: H&M Pushes Organic for Fall!

by Jill Danyelle

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Following the successful launch of their 100% organic line this spring, we are excited to announce that H&M is expanding its organic cotton range this fall! We frequently receive comments about ’sustainable style’ not being stylish, affordable or easy to find, so we are hoping this news will please the thrifty eco-fashionistas out there. Additionally, we are happy to see a fashion retailer as big as H&M making a real commitment to organic cotton. To support this initiative and help kickstart the organic fashion movement, get yourself to an H&M and bundle up in cozy organic cotton this fall.

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September 30, 2007

C.L.A.S.S. and SLOWHITE bring sustainable style to Milan

by Jill Danyelle

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C.L.A.S.S., which stands for creativity, lifestyle and sustainable synergey, is a new platform for the textile industry. A C.L.A.S.S. show is being held this weekend at WHITE, the cool new fashion trade show in Milan, and is dedicated to showing eco-friendly textiles.
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September 23, 2007

NOKI - House of Sustainability

by Jill Danyelle

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I don’t know if I can sum this up any better than Australian fashion journalist Patty Huntington did: “Move over Gareth Pugh - there’s a new freak in town.”

London is typically the experimental comma between the more sedate New York and Milan fashion weeks and the appetizer to what might await in Paris. So NOKI did not disappoint at the Fashion East show with a melange of thrift that appeared to be styled by Edward Scissorhands - don’t try this at home kids.  Or wait, DO try this at home, seems to have been the message. 

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September 23, 2007

ESTETHICA @ London Fashion Week

by Jill Danyelle

london fashion week estethica eco sustainable

Estethica is a sustainable fashion exhibit celebrating its first year anniversary at London Fashion Week. It is a special space inside The Exhibition where designers will display collections founded on ecological and organic principles. Maintaining the highest standards in design and craftsmanship, all the labels here are creating high end fashion without compromise. Some of our favorite designers from home and abroad will be participating. The exhibition will feature Ciel, Davina Hawthorne, Enamore, From Somewhere; Gary Harvey, Katharine Hamnett, Noir, Nature vs Future and Veja to name a few. Stay tuned as we will highlight some of the best of these sustainable designers this fall.

+ Estethica @ London Fashion Week

September 16, 2007

EKOVARUHUSET ECO FASHION SHOW

by Jill Danyelle

Eko Main

Ekovaruhuset, which translates to ‘House of Organic’ in Swedish, is an eco-boutique founded by Johanna Hofring. She opened the first Ekovaruhuset shop in Stockholm in 2004 to bring one-of-a-kind, hand-made eco-creations to Sweden. The second boutique opened up in NYC last year and has quickly become one of our local favorites. Ekovaruhuset carries a few brands, like eco-sneaker favorite Veja, but stocks the shop mostly with their own designs crafted from a collective of select designers.

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September 16, 2007

SUSTAINABLE STYLE: SANS Spring 2008 Fashion Show

by Jill Danyelle

SANS Holey Top

During last week’s New York fashion week, avant-garde label SANS combined references as obscure as German comedy with eco-friendly fabrics, pushing the boundaries of sustainable style. As older eco brands such as ThreeAsFour start to become more refined and commercial, it is comforting to have a groundbreaking label such as SANS to fearlessly pick up the torch and continue pushing fashion forward. This year’s collection proved that SANS is still the go-to label for the intellectual fashionista that requires a no-frills, modern look to accompany her downtown eco-lifestyle.

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September 9, 2007

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPRING 2008: NOIR

by Jill Danyelle

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Yesterday, the Danish label NOIR held its first show during New York Fashion Week. The socially and environmentally conscious label was a welcomed addition to the slowly growing, yet still miniscule contingent of designers showing eco-friendly options here. NOIR worked with model Shalom Harlow for their spring campaign (above). The model is well known for her support of eco-friendly fashion. Continue reading for details on the collection and images from the show.

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September 9, 2007

NY FASHION WEEK SPRING 2008: John Patrick Organic

by Jill Danyelle

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John Patrick Organic is the quintessential embodiment of “sustainable style” - consistently creating beautiful, organic, natural garments that are as fresh as they are wearable. Striking a perfect balance between organic (not straying too far into the granola), and fashion (not straying too far into circus tent), John Patrick manages to create very wearable, practical, comfortable clothes that are unique, beautifully crafted, and thoroughly elegant.

Earlier this week we went to visit John Patrick Organic to preview the Spring 2008 collection. Aside from the tasty treats and tea, there were plenty of delights on display. John Patrick hasn’t wavered much in aesthetic from his first Organic collection, which is thankful as these are exactly the kind of clothes you can live in. The collection is comprised of easy wearing separates that can be dressed up or down to get you through a day at the office or a weekend at the beach in sustainable style.

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September 2, 2007

SUSTAINABLE STYLE: Summer Sales!

by Jill Danyelle

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One of the frequent criticisms we hear about eco-design is its often hefty price tag. If you want to support green design, but have had trouble parting with so much of your own green to do so, now is the time to shop! Virtually every green-minded clothing outfit (pun intended) is running a summer clearance sale, with many items that will easily transition into the cooler weather, like the men’s sweater above from Patagonia and shirt from Nau. So now you have no excuse- continue reading for a few examples of the great green fashion sales going on now!

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August 26, 2007

SUSTAINABLE STYLE: Demano Recycled Bags

by Jill Danyelle

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The cultural activity in Barcelona generates a huge number of advertising banners every year, which are hung from street lights to advertise exhibitions and events. In 2000 there were approximately 19,800 banners that were largely not reusable. Enter Demano to the rescue: the Spanish company recycles these banners into a variety of cool products for portage (similar to Baumm’s recycled banner bags).

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August 19, 2007

SUSTAINABLE STYLE: KUYICHI Ethical Fashion

by Jill Danyelle

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Kuyichi is a Netherlands-based brand committed to making organic cotton jeans for the last five years. They buy their cotton from Peruvian farmers and strive to be socially and environmentally sound. They think owning their product should be a “look good/ feel good” situation. This year they have launched a “made-by” campaign- a blue button sewn into participating manufacturers’ goods signifies the garment has been made in an environment/people friendly way.

+ Kuyichi

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August 12, 2007

DESIGNER PROFILE: Katharine Hamnett

by Jill Danyelle

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Earlier this year we mentioned Katharine Hamnett’s Cotton Campaign. Now with the recent launch of her new ethical line, Katharine E Hamnett, we felt it was time to take another look at the career of this designer who has long co-mingled social and environmental causes with her design work.

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August 5, 2007

SUSTAINABLE STYLE SUNDAY: Anna Cohen

by Jill Danyelle

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After years in the fashion industry, Anna Cohen has returned to her Portland, Oregon roots and launched her eponymous eco label, infusing her high-quality designs with sustainable principles and a sexy, chic esthetic that takes the crunch out of conscious dressing. She was recently awarded an EILEEN FISHER Grant for Women Entrepreneurs. The grants are intended to help grow socially conscious, women-owned businesses.

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July 29, 2007

BUYING INTO THE GREEN MOVEMENT

by Jill Danyelle

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Well, it seems everyone is up in arms. We knew it wouldn’t take long before traditional environmentalists would want to rain on the eco-chic consumer’s parade. The recent NY Times article, “Buying Into the Green Movement” begs the question “is eco-minded consumerism the best solution?” and was apparently the most emailed article the day it ran. I myself received it in multiples - specific quotes on the futility of fashion highlighted. Just when you convinced yourself that you were doing your part to save the planet, that nasty image of polar bears without ice resurfaces. It is time to come down from that eco-luxury cloud, my neo-green brethren, there is more that needs to be done. I am just wondering, “what is wrong with wearing organic jeans to the crusade?”

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July 22, 2007

SUSTAINABLE STYLE SUNDAY: Beau Soleil

by Jill Danyelle

beau soleil bamboo organic cotton eco sustainable fashion

Designer Anne Salvatore Epstein cut her fashion teeth at well-known companies such as Marc Jacobs, IISLI and Elie Tahari, but it was her pregnancy that set her on a path towards starting her own line, Beau Soleil. She and her husband began an effort to simplify their “overly excessive” New York City lifestyle into one that is “Simple. Modern. Organic.” They moved into a green building, increased their trips to the green market, and made conscious everyday living decisions to do their part in saving the planet. It wasn’t long until this new mindset opened her eyes to how the manufacturing process of the fashion industry impacts the environment. Soon after she made the decision to strike out on her own with in order to design with the environment in mind. Beau Soleil uses fabric made out of bamboo, vegetable-dyed organic cottons and vintage, recycled leather trims.

+ Beau Soleil
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July 15, 2007

SUSTAINABLE STYLE: Loyale

by Jill Danyelle

loyale eco fashion sustainable style organic bamboo

Designer Jenny Hwa began Loyale with a small yoga collection. Luckily for eco-fashion, she has branched out and grown her collection to include easy-wearing separates and breezy summer dresses. Made in the U.S. from sustainably sourced materials, such as bamboo and organic cotton, Loyale fits the bill this summer for your trip to the beach, backyard bbq, or slip on the slinky full-length Calexico dress for a more sophisticated approach to a warm evening outing.

+ Loyale

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